Puppy crate training
Ask The Vet Home > Dogs > Dog Care > Puppy Care
For some people, putting a puppy in a crate evokes pictures of cramped dogs in cages lying in their feces and waiting at death row. It's not a pretty picture and many would think, 'why would I want to put my puppy back IN a cage when I've just saved him from the shelter where he practically lived in one?' Valid question. Thing is, in the wild, dogs live in dens, they like the cosiness of a den like environment. Unless you plan to buy a dog house, crates have a place in
a puppy's life. Crates also work well when you need to housetrain your puppy. Dogs in general do not like to soil their sleeping area. Also crates double up as a place away from home when you take puppy with you on holidays. What's more, if you aren't comfortable having puppy in the car on your lap, then a crate works well.
Picking the crate
You need to work out what size suits you and your puppy best. Ideally a crate should allow the puppy to stand up and turn around whilst in the crate. Most owners will buy a crate that will last into adulthood - some find that these can be too big for the puppy and loses the cosiness so they've overcome this by fitting in dividers in the crate and removing these as the puppy grows. If you are planning possible plane trips with your dog then getting a sturdy one (fiberglass models are ideal) would be best. You may want to ring the airline you usually travel with and ask them if there's any particular brand/model they prefer on their
flights.
Teaching the puppy to use the crate
Rule of thumb though - a crate has its place in a puppy's life but puppies are not meant to be shut away hours at a time (aside from the overnight sleep of course) - they need social contact daily. To get the puppy used to the crate, make sure it's comfortable - line it with a blanket, his favorite toy and encourage him to get into the crate by rewarding him with treats when he does go in. Teach him verbal cues to associate with the crate. Some owners say 'bedtime Rover' and that's the cue for the puppy to get into the crate. Repeat this several times to associate the crate with the verbal cue.
The first few times, leave the crate door open. Eventually, shut the gate and leave him. Start by leaving him for only short periods of time. If he settles down to sleep, then leave him for longer. If he paces around, then leave him for shorter durations. Ignore unwanted behavior eg whining. If your puppy whines when you close the gate and leave, ignore it. If you open the gate to comfort him at this point, he will realize that whining will get you to open the gate. I would leave him for a couple of minutes, and when he does settle, open the gate. You want to reward desired behavior ie when he's quiet, you will come to get him, not when he's whining. Most dogs will adjust well to crates because it's cosy and warm and they feel safe. A word of advice - make sure puppy has had the chance to go to the toilet before you crate him - it's only fair. Never use the crate as a place for punishment - you want him to associate the crate with 'good things' like food and praise and warmth, not punishment.
Some dogs with separation anxiety will not crate well. They don't relax in their crates and instead try desperately to escape and in so doing will damage themselves and the crate in the process. If this is your dog (pound dogs commonly suffer from separation anxiety) then you need to speak with your veterinarian about behavior modification techniques or possible sedatives.
Past dog health questionsDog with loose stools My 9mo male West Highland White puppy has been experiencing loose stool for about 5 days now. He eats only Eukanuba Puppy food. He is acting completely normal and seems very happy. He has had 2 accidents inside his crate. Usually he is ok for up to 7 hrs in it. The accidents have occured after about 4 hrs in the crate. Pay just $3.95 for the answer - click here Crating dogs and introducing puppies to crates Polly is a toy poodle puppy (14wks old now) that I have had for only 2 months. My last dog, Prissy, died of cancer one year ago. So, it has been about 12 years since I have had a puppy. Prissy was very easy to train, quiet, docile, and had been in a crate since she was born. Polly was the dominant pup in her litter, is very vocal (i.e., whines a LOT), and seems to hate the crate. Polly is very smart. She is already completely house broken, and is almost leash trained. She already knows her name and has picked up several more words.
However, I have two main issues that are concerning me. The first is about the crate. I am single and work. Polly will need to be comfortable being in her crate. I am a school teacher and am home now most of the time since it's summer. So, she's not been alone much. However, I have been putting her in the crate a little every day even if I am home. I have tried to praise her when she finally quiets down. The problem is she NEVER quiets down. She will whine for 2-3 hours straight. I eventually get her out when the time is up, but I'm afraid she is connecting "freedom" with whining. HELP!
My second question is kind of related and has to do with sleeping. What is a reasonable time period for a puppy her age to sleep through the night? She weighs about 4 pounds. Again, she whines to wake me up. I am a late night, late sleeper person. I teach night classes and have adopted a night owl routine. I am trying to get her on my schedule and it is not working. She can go to bed at 9 or midnight and she still wants to get up between 7 and 8 in the morning. I hate to compare, but Prissy slept through the night from day one and easily slipped into my routine. I feel like I am the one doing something wrong or that maybe I was just lucky before and this type of transition is more normal. Are my expectations too great for a puppy her age and will this just come in time? If I knew that, I would be able to relax more and just enjoy her now. As it is, I am stressed to the max because I feel like I am screwing this up. Thanks for your help.
Pay just $3.95 for the answer - click here Puppy with blood in stools As stated, purchased dog (9week old now Chihuahua female puppy) 3/7/05 (6 days ago) from reputable pet store. Had dog checked by vet on 3/10 everything fine. Stool sample normal and negative for parasites. Next shots due 4/5/05 was up to date on shots on 3/10. I believe I am the fault of the problem my puppy has and am hoping it will rectify itself on its one. Puppy weighs 2lbs 8oz. I am used to Boxers never had a small dog. Was given Natures Choice Lamb and rice dry food by pet store. Told vet that dog did not appear to eat very much. He suggested I mix canned with dry. Friday I mixed canned and she ate a little better - and stool firm and normal. Yesterday, not content with amount she ate, I decided on my own to only give hr canned food for the entire day - Natures Choice Lamb, rice and has peas and carrots in with it along with broth. She did not sleep though the night last night so I placed her in bet in kitchen. This am there were many thin stools with drops of blood dotted on the training pads on the floor. She has had several loose stools today and squeezes brigh red blood drops out at the end of movement. Also some blood around the stool in spots but not "in" the stool. Also, some drops of blood on her blanket. Alarmed,I returned to the dry food and mixed a small amount of cooked ground round around the small bite pellets - she ate about 1/2 cup so far and has been drinking water and acting like a frisky normal pup. I have also cleaned her rectum and placed some vasoline on it as that is all I have right now but will purchase anything necessary for her. Do dogs get hemorriods? What can I do? Will this clear up on its own? Help! Eternally greatful. Right now I am embarassed to return to the vet and tell him what I have done, but if you think I should I will. Many Thanks!
Pay just $3.95 for the answer - click here Dog with suspected urinary tract infection
Puppies usually have to go to the toilet every 3-4 hours (sometimes this works out to be every 1-2 hours when they are little) and especially after a meal, play or drink. And it is common for puppies to just urinate a little sometimes and other times it's a big gush. If it is UTI, unless it's a situation where she's got a blocked urethra (the outlet from the bladder), it's not something that is a life or death type scenario. The rule of thumb is that if she starts to go downhill and by this I mean losing interest in food, play, mopes around or starts vomiting, then it's time to rush her into your emergency vet. Crate training is okay but I need to ask you how often you leave her there on her own? How do you respond to her when she is whining? For most of us, we would respond to whining by telling them to keep quiet or if they whine long enough, would think, 'O maybe she needs to go out to the toilet' and therefore let her out. What you are inadvertently doing is reinforcing the behavior ie if I whine long enough, daddy/mummy will let me out. Rather what you are trying to do is to let her out after she's been 'good' ie not whining. It's tricky I know and inevitably you will end up with the situation that you have had where she's whined and you've ignored her only to find that she's pooped in the cage and you get overwhelmed with guilt and think, 'O maybe she was trying to tell us she needed to go and we ignored her.' These thoughts are non- productive so I think it's best not to resort to them and just start over. Gradually with time, she will learn that if she is quiet, she will get let out and whining is not the way to get around things. Just ensure that she does get lots of cuddles when she is outside, after all, they are a pack animal and they do by nature live in a pack and are not used to being put in isolation like that for long periods. As for the UTI, you can try to take her temperature but if she is running a temperature, she will usually act a bit off color and will not be engaging in rambunctious play. I would say watch her for another 24 hours to see if she is getting any worse - by this I mean her general demeanour (see above signs I've mentioned), if she is, then I would take her into the emergency vet. If you notice any change in the color of the urine eg blood stained, cloudy and strong smelling, then it would be wise to take her in too. Otherwise, it may just be that she's just a puppy and can't really control her sphincter yet. If you are still concerned, then by all means take her in on Monday just to put your mind at ease. Pay just $3.95 for the answer - click herePuppy coughing I bought a puppy from the humane society. It is a lab mix male that was neuterd last friday. The vet noticed the puppy had a cough so he gave him some antibiotics to take for a couple of days. The puppy has finished the antibiotics but still has a cough and now a runny nose. He coughs so hard I think he is trying to throw up but doesn't. Is this normal or should I take him back to the doctors? He seems to sleep alot more that he did when I first got him home. He is 2 and 1/2 months old.
Pay just $3.95 for the answer - click here
|
Vet question of the day
Add to
Dog with fleas
Last night my 7yo female neutered maltese was scatching a little & I noticed that the day before she did a little too. I rolled her over to look through her and found a flea...then 2 more a little bit later. I immediately ran to the store and bought Sergeants flea control that you put on their back between the shoulder blades & put that on her immediatedly. I washed all of her bedding & have vaccumed the house at least 3 times since. We have a huge 2 level house and the dog is 99.9% of the time on our main level in our living room & dining room. I found only 2 today...and that was early this morning...I have not seen any since...but am scared to death of how many fleas are in our house that I cannot see. I am afraid they are crawling everywhere & don't know where to start. The dog sometimes goes upstairs in our bedrooms.....I am afraid these pests could be in closets & etc....any advice would be greatly appreciated! - Click
here to read the answer
More
pet
health questions
Links